My Therapy by Valentin Rey
This thing is so intangible when you live in Switzerland. You have to travel, or wait for a storm that will transform alpine lakes in tiny oceans. The addiction gets even bigger. The deficiency becomes unbearable. Every moment, every second is haunted by the vision of the last ridden wave, this marvelous liquid cylinder. It is in my brain like a parasite. How can you not become crazy when you have experienced the perfection of a wave but the closest one is far, very far behind the horizon and the mountains?
The smell, the sound, the texture of the water bending under my board, the moments of meditation...everything comes back in my mind with those pictures. It brings feelings, words. This is my therapy.