I’m fortunate enough to have grown up in one of the most awe inspiring places on the planet. Living on the Great Ocean Road in Victoria I’ve spent years travelling up and down the coast exploring by land and sea the Gadabanaud country “which is the name of the local Aboriginal tribe that lived in this area”. This place has a very primal and mysterious feel unlike any other I’ve been to. You feel immersed in your surroundings, humbled by the grandeur of nature. The adversity of the terrain & cliffs which stand like a fortress against the raw powerful swells from the Southern Ocean.
This sea seems endless, vast and always alive. Birds like the giant albatross wheel and soar riding the updraft of the swells. The clarity of winter light and cold fresh air always leave you rejuvenated and somewhat numb from every session in the water.
This is a land of extremes; the winter months see you huddled around a fire in an attempt to thaw out from the inclement weather. In this intense environment surfing or shooting you are covered in thick neoprene which never quite seems enough.
Seasons change, and what was covered in snow turns quickly to a desert like setting. Scorching temperatures, sand, and more flies than what’s imaginable. Still despite the constant changing and unpredictable environment its somewhere I can still find a degree of solitude and calm, away from the chaos of civilisation and mobile reception. Not to mention a few waves.
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