San Onofre has become one of my favorite California spots. Each weekend I meet a close friend for a day of laid back logging, at one of California’s most famous spots. No matter how crowed the lineup gets, guys seem to just have fun. Unlike other well known areas, Sano has a PG vibe surrounding it, there’s little to no competition in the water. Weekend’s tend to bring out families from all over, while during the week it can remain a ghost town. What’s so special about San Onofre is it seems time has stopped. The 70’s feeling still exists, old vans, classic cars, and mustaches line the parking lot, while single fins fill the line-up.
Driving I-5 before the sun is awake is now a sunday morning ritual. Nights before hardly sleep, something about this place brings out the kid in me. As I paddle out, the sun is rising and painting the wave full of color. I begin to wonder if the rush of excitement is the same feeling as those who surfed here 40 years before me.