I started surfing when I was about 14....
Constantly asking my folks to get me down to the beach or getting a ride with mates.
We live about an hour away so it made it pretty hard, but as cliche as it is.... it made it so much better when I was there.
Over the years of surfing I made heaps of mates down the coast and slowly began to fall for the surf culture just as much as the surfing itself, *camping, drinking too much, waking up on the beach with a ripper headache (you know the one)* This also got me into playing a lot more music as that was another thing that got everyone together down the coast. That led to meeting many, many new mates.
Even tho I'm still a average surfer and an even clunkier musician, I now find myself there almost every week/weekend... it's pretty much a second home.
Check more of our man Pat's photography via his insta.
Or suss some of his music here. Yew.